This weekend I completed the installation of windows and doors on the Bodega. I even have a front door key for my key chain!
Here is a flashing diagram to give you a rough idea what we need to do:
You will need some self adhesive window flashing material for this job. I used Grace Vycor in 9, 6, and 4 inch sizes to install my windows. You will also need a tube of goo to seal behind the window, I like the Lexel product but anything will work. Some composite shims and a strip of composite (plastic) material 1/8 – 1/4 inch thick by an inch wide is needed to a backstop.
Under normal circumstances water leaks into your window. This water will collect in the cavity under the window. You must install a “drain pan” to gather this water and let it drain away and/or evaporate without rotting the wood.
The First part of the “drain pan” is the backer which makes a little dam to prevent water from flowing into the house. This piece is applied across the width of the rough window sill about 4.5 inches back but will vary depending on the thickness of your window. On top of the backer you will install a 9 inch piece of vycor window flashing. You want to form this into a tray that will capture all the water. You need to pay special attention to the corners as these are difficult to form. I cut several small strips for my corners, but there are products that allow you to form the pan in one single piece. There are also PVC molded drain pans available.
Once the drain pan is installed I wrapped 6 inch vycor flashing around each side and the top. This is not really needed, however I wanted to seal the air gap between the foam insulation and the plywood window boxes. Also its important to note that the Lexel sealant I use contains solvents which can “eat” rigid foam. I apply the sealant to the vycor rather than the foam.
When you are ready to install the window you need to insert 2 composite shims on the drain pan to hold the window off the bottom of the window opening. You also need to apply a thick bead or sealant to the top and sides of the window opening. DONT EVER apply sealant to the bottom. You want any water collected in the drain pan to drain out the bottom of the window. If you seal up the bottom who knows what will be growing in there in six months!
The next step is to place the window unit into the opening. My windows are very small and were 100% square when installed. I had to insert a shim or two on a bottom corner to level the unit otherwise they just dropped in and were perfect. I attached the metal window tabs to the edges of the plywood boxes. I will install shims on all sides and install trim screws thru the window frame into the window boxes for additional support. Larger windows may require more robust mounting than mine. After shimming, I will apply spray foam to the gap between the window box and window unit. At that point it’s not coming out ever except with a sawsall.
I installed the doors exactly the same as the windows but had to do quite a bit more shimming to make the doors work properly. The front door is very “sticky” on the bottom as the adjustable wiper seems to just be tight. The back door works very nicely with just a small amount of resistance on the bottom. Overall I am 100% not impressed with the doors I bought. I only paid about $250 per door and maybe its just a case of getting what I paid for. The doors are flexible and just don’t seem that solid. I will be sure to install the trim in a manner that makes door replacement easy since I think its likely to happen.
I still need to shim and insulate the windows. There is also a number of odds and ends that need to be taken care of to complete the exterior installation. Next weekend I will complete these and add floor joists to the front porch so I can begin framing it.