This weekend I began what will be 2 weeks of punch list work. Meaning I finished all the little odds n ends that were too time consuming to deal with when I was building. It also means that I was fixing things that I broke when building other things (wall dings etc).
The weekend began by renting a 12ft ladder from Home Depot. I could have bought one, but they are $280 and I just don’t see the need when a rental was 22 bucks.
When I originally installed the fan, very little air was blowing. I speculated that it needed some room away from the ceiling to let aerodynamics work properly.
I pulled down the ceiling fan and installed a 24 inch rod on it. I also decided to install a special switch that would reverse the direction of the fan. That is a very useful feature in the winter heating season where you want the fan sucking instead of blowing. Here is the circuit diagram in case you want to add one to your DC fan (I did not draw this, just stole it from a google search).
With everything back together I tested the fan and guess what? It actually blows and sucks air! Lesson: make sure you have enough space around your fan….tough in a tiny house, but important.
The other task I needed the ladder for was the trim around the stove pipe. This was a very complex piece since the pipe goes thru both the flat and sloped ceiling. I had my friend Tim make me templates on his CAD system so I could trace them onto cardboard and then metal.
The trim is made in two pieces and are different sizes. I made cardboard ones first, then when I thought I had it right the cardboard helped me mark the sheet of aluminum. I use thin gauge aluminum and scribe it with a sharp utility knife. If you scribe it deep enough, the pieces can be wiggled a bit and will break at the scribed line. The process was a real pain in the ass let me tell you! If possible install your chimney so standard trim can be used.
I wanted something to break up the walls of the kitchen and make the control panels not look so much like well….control panels. I decided to use up the leftover paneling from the porch project.
Using a liberal amount of Liquid Nails paneling formula and a few strategically placed finish nails I added about 24 inches of paneling. I will add some nice black coat hooks and who knows what else. Might find an old school telephone for the wall as well.
The last thing needed before the plumber comes is the water tank. I built up the “tee” pipe with all the doo-dads you need. It starts with a gate valve which lets me block the pipe so I can force water to the other house. Then a check valve is installed so that the tank can’t push water back into the well. Next a connection to the tank, pressure gauge, relief valve, and pressure switch is made. The pressure switch “switches” at 60 PSI which will command my pump controller to shut off. The relief valve opens if that fails to happen.
After installation I discovered that there was a leak which sucks since this stuff is really packed in there. The cause was the plastic fitting on the tank. The instructions to hand tighten and then some are totally bogus.
My solution was to rip out the tank and use a pipe sealant rather than teflon tape. Then I tightened it pretty darn tight. After pressurizing it for the second time….there was still a leak!
For the third attempt, I decided to leave everything in the hole and tighten it in place. Using a mother adjustable wrench I tightened it to the point where I thought it was ready to crack. After pressurizing the third time, it was still leaking a tiny bit. I’m going to let it be and see if the pipe sealant stops it up. There is nothing in the hole that can be damaged, so a little drip is not an issue. During humid months the tank will sweat which can produce a lot of moisture….so a little drip is acceptable (to me anyway).
This Thurs the plumber is coming for final plumbing work. The propane company will be coming by next Thurs to install a 200 pound tank. This weekend, I will be doing more punch list items, cleanup, and hardwood floor shopping. If all goes well, I should be installing the flooring by the third week in Sept. A move in date of Oct 1 looks to be doable. Stay Tuned!